M1012W (001) WWⅡ MODEL | Left Hand Twill

M1012W WWII MODEL. A wartime work jean reconstructed through the lens of BIG JOHN.

Inspired by American store-brand work jeans from the 1940s, this model draws from the rugged, purely functional character of anonymous “UNKNOWN” vintage garments.

During World War II, strict material controls forced manufacturers to produce garments with limited resources. Simplified construction, coarse materials, and practical details became defining features of what is now known as the WWII model.

BIG JOHN reinterprets that atmosphere from the fabric onward, focusing on the historical reality that leftover yarns, cotton waste, and other available materials had to be reused during the period.

Developed around the question, “What if BIG JOHN had made jeans in the 1940s?”, the M1012W WWII MODEL combines wartime utility with modern Japanese craftsmanship and everyday wearability.

■ Fabric — 10oz WWII Selvedge Denim
The fabric is a 10oz unfinished selvedge denim made from 100% cotton, including 20% material-recycled cotton.

Cotton waste, off-specification yarns, and deadstock yarns generated during the spinning process are respun and reused.

The short fibers create visible fuzz, natural neps, a coarse dry hand, and an irregular surface reminiscent of vintage workwear denim.

The sized warp yarns are woven at low tension on vintage shuttle looms, while the weft is packed firmly into the fabric.

This creates the dense appearance of vintage denim while retaining an airy softness and comfortable flexibility.

■ Left-Hand Twill — Softness and streaky vertical fading
The denim is woven in a left-hand twill construction.

As the fabric breaks in, the left-hand twill allows it to soften and conform naturally to the body, creating a supple wearing feel that becomes more comfortable over time.

At the same time, the irregular character of the yarn becomes increasingly visible along the vertical direction of the fabric.

As the indigo wears away, long streak-like lines and uneven tonal variation begin to emerge across the legs, creating the distinctive vertical fading associated with left-hand-twill denim.

This streaky character develops together with whiskers, honeycombs, seam abrasion, and puckering.

The result is a rugged, dimensional fade with greater vertical movement and a deeply individual vintage expression.

Although the fabric has the substantial appearance of a 13oz-class denim, its actual weight is only 10oz.

The result is a lighter wearing feel suitable for year-round use.

■ Fabric Specifications
• Fabric: 10oz WWII selvedge denim
• State: Loomstate / unfinished denim
• Yarn Count: 7/- × 10/-
• Composition: 100% cotton
• Recycled Content: 20% material-recycled cotton
• Weave: Left-hand twill
• Finishing: No sanforization, skew correction, or singeing
• Garment Finish: One wash and naturally sun-dried

■ Silhouette
The silhouette is a regular straight fit with a deep rise and slightly generous proportions.

It retains the practical balance of traditional work trousers while remaining easy to incorporate into modern styling.

■ Details
• Regular straight fit with a deep rise
• One-side selvedge construction inspired by wartime fabric restrictions
• Iron one-star donut top button
• Iron UFO-style fly buttons
• Crotch rivet
• High back yoke inspired by traditional workwear
• Six belt loops for added strength
• Cotton-thread sewing for natural vintage-style aging
• Rayon woven label

The leather patch is made from natural vegetable-tanned cowhide.

It is hand-washed, hand-kneaded, and naturally sun-dried five times before being finished with oil, creating a distinctive surface and character unique to each piece.

Every detail originates from necessity rather than decoration.

The simplified construction reflects the efficiency and strength of 1940s workwear, while the coarse yet dimensional fabric becomes increasingly expressive with wear.

■ Style
• Silhouette: Regular straight
• Rise: Deep rise
• Front: Button fly
• Finish: One wash / naturally sun-dried

■ Material
100% cotton
Includes 20% material-recycled cotton

■ Country of Origin
Made in Japan

■ Notes
The garment has been one washed and naturally sun-dried, but additional shrinkage of several centimeters may still occur.
We recommend washing the jeans two or three times before hemming.
When hemming before washing, please allow approximately one extra inch for possible shrinkage.
Please avoid tumble drying.
Do not use chlorine bleach.
Please check the care label before washing.
This product uses indigo dye. Fading and color transfer may occur with wear, friction, perspiration, or moisture.
Please take care when wearing with light-colored garments, footwear, bags, furniture, or car seats.